The works of Umlauf

The Zilker Park was only one of the many attractions of Austin. Not too far from there is another garden, a more sculpted yet wild one: the Umlauf Sculpture garden and museum.

Featuring 62 figurines, most of which Charles Umlauf himself sculpted, the garden stands as a testament to the combined beauties of nature and human intricacies. Charles Umlauf was born to French-German immigrant parents in Michigan. He grew up in Chicago and attended the Art Institute there.

When I walked inside, I knew nothing about a sculpture garden. I had no idea that the garden is home to some of the most magnificent sculptures I’d seen. I didn’t know then that I’d spend hours walking round and round taking photos of every sculpture on display, trying to capture its entire glory in multiple angles.

The first thing the caught my attention was a sculpture titled, Refugees. The garden guide I held explained that Umlauf had made it in 1945 as a reminder of the aftermath of the Second World War. As I observed the intricate carvings of the refugee’s drooping eyes and waning rib cage, I felt an immense sense of doom engulfing me. In such a realistic manner, the artist had recreated mite moments of a dying life. It was a stunner. And so were the rest of the exhibits.

Refugees - a sculpture at the Umlauf sculpture garden and museum, Austin, Texas
Refugees

Refugees: Charles Umlauf made many sculptures in the refugee theme. Growing up in Chicago and Michigan, his own family faced a lot of anti-German prejudice. It even led to Americanising their German names. Charles was renamed Karl.

lazarus - a sculpture at the Umlauf sculpture garden and museum, Austin, Texas
Lazarus

Lazarus: Bronze sculpture, made in 1950. The work os based on a parable about dying. It depicts a sore beggar who “longs to eat what fell from the rich man’s plate.” (Luke 16:21)

Crucifixion - a sculpture at the Umlauf sculpture garden and museum, Austin, Texas
Crucifixion

Crucifixion: 1946, aluminium. This sculpture was a gift from the McNay Art Museum. It’s a scale model of the 10-inch sculpture of the same name made by Marion Koogler McNay for the Shine of St. Antony de Padua Cemetery in San Antonio.

Poetess - a sculpture at the Umlauf sculpture garden and museum, Austin, Texas
Poetess

Poetess: 1956, cast stone. The sculpture pays homage to Charles’ wife, Angeline Allen Umlauf, who was an art student in Chicago before becoming a poetess. Representing poetic inspiration, the sculpture also refers to Angeline who played a part in creating the Sculpture Garden.

Family - a sculpture at the Umlauf sculpture garden and museum, Austin, Texas
Family

Family: 1960, bronze. This is a scale model of the Family sculpture that in the University of Texas campus. The model is 1/3 of the size of the 15-inch version in UT.

Diver - a sculpture at the Umlauf sculpture garden and museum, Austin, Texas
Diver

Diver: 1956, bronze. Modelled by Umlauf’s son, this statue is s reminder of the Umlauf children’s childhood. When young, they’d run down the hill from their home, cutting through the “weeds” to swim at Barton Springs. The diver seems to be cutting through the same “weeds” that were transformed into the garden.

Muse - a sculpture at the Umlauf sculpture garden and museum, Austin, Texas
Muse

Muse 2 – Head: 1963, bronze. Charles made 3 bronze muse statues for the University of Texas. However, he set aside this head of the second muse statue as a separate work.

Spirit of Flight  - a sculpture at the Umlauf sculpture garden and museum, Austin, Texas
Spirit of Flight

Spirit of Flight: 1959, bronze. In the 1959 edition of the Dallas Love Field Monument Sculpture Competition, the winner and the runner up were Umlauf’s sculptures. All entires were anonymous. This one is a scale model for the airport’s fountain installation, which stands 17’ on a 22’ plinth, surrounded by 18 oversized birds.

Hope of Humanity - a sculpture at the Umlauf sculpture garden and museum, Austin, Texas
Hope of Humanity

Hope of Humanity: 1971, bronze. This is a scale model of the 12.6’ sculpture commissioned by the Houston Museum of Natural Science. Charles Umlauf, while sculpting this, took photographs to document the whole process for a book titled, The Sculpture and Drawing of Charles Umlauf. 

Skater - a sculpture at the Umlauf sculpture garden and museum, Austin, Texas
Skater

Skater: 1970, bronze. Charles Umlauf’s homage to Peggy Fleming, an American skater in the 1968 Winter Olympics in France. Only 19 years old then, the skater ha down the gold medal for the United States in that tournament.

Icarus - a sculpture at the Umlauf sculpture garden and museum, Austin, Texas
Icarus

Icarus: 1965, bronze. According to Greek mythology, Icarus and his father Daedalus, were trapped  on a labyrinth in the island of Crete. In an attempt to escape, Daedalus made wings for the boy of them using features and wax. Despite his father’s warnings of not to fly too close to the sun, Icarus did and fell into the sea as his wings melted. The myth symbolises the excessive pride of youth and the failed ambitions of humankind.

Eagle - a sculpture at the Umlauf sculpture garden and museum, Austin, Texas
Eagle

Eagle: 1968, bronze. Commissioned for the Austin headquarters of the First Federal Savings & Loan, this statue stood there for 50 years, before the state loaned it to the garden.

If you ever have a chance to visit the Umlauf Sculpture Garden and Museum in Austin, Texas, please do. It’s so worth your time. 

Small

Buildings as seen from across the Colarado RIver in Austin, Texas
Buildings as seen from across the Colarado RIver in Austin, Texas

All things big and small

feel smaller still from afar

the bully, distance

Look beyond

Ladybird Lake hike and bike trail in Austin, Texas

Hidden in plain sight

a world no one’s ever seen

perspective matters

— — —

Photo: Ladybird Lake hike and bike trail in Austin, Texas

Zilker

I hate stereotyping. As a victim of it myself, I try and always avoid pushing others into pre-built notions of what’s right and what isn’t. 

But with Texas, I couldn’t help it. 

When I learnt I’d be visiting Austin, Texas for a couple of weeks, I was expecting vast mounds of sand, and cowboy boots on every other street. Yet in the most spectacular way possible, the city proved me wrong. On my first day there, a colleague was gracious to take me along as he ran errands. Aside from being a hot city, Austin, I observed is a rather small town. With the river flowing through the city, it was quite easy for me to figure out what’s where.

Zilker Metropolitan Park
Zilker Metropolitan Park

For the love of public transportation, I chose to use the Austin bus service to explore the city. From where I stayed, the bus stop was a ten-minute walk away. Waiting for the bus wasn’t too bad—In no longer than five minutes, a bus trudged my way. Perching myself on a seat by the window, I gawked throughout that short ride at the city that was more green than I’d ever imagined it’d be. Trees and bushes lined the pavements, punctured on occasion by shops and buildings. About 20 minutes of slow riding later, I had to transfer to another route that’d take me to where I’d been wanting to visit first since I first heard about it from colleagues: Zilker Park and Botanical Garden. As soon as they heard I enjoyed parks and open green spaces, many people, from friends and colleagues, to even the passenger next to me in the flight, recommended the Zilker park. I couldn’t pass the opportunity.

And so I waited. With bated breath and mounting excitement, I stood at the bus stop for ten minutes. No sign of a bus. According to my online resources, the bus showed no signs of a delay. I was beginning to get restless when another passenger, travelling on the same route, came along sulking. Within two minutes of conversing with him, I realised the bus schedules are often a mess. Although most of them arrive on time, they aren’t as frequent as you’d like. Having waited for over 20 minutes, I gave up, and so did my co-passenger. It wasn’t a long walk, but it wasn’t a short one either. To make up for the disappointment, however, it was scenic and rather enjoyable.

Zilker Metropolitan Park
Casual Sunday at the Zilker Metropolitan Park

About 40 minutes later, a wave of green valley hit my eyes hard. Zilker Park is a 351-acre expanse of greenery like I’d never seen before. And the people of Austin knew its value, for there were families picnicking, owners change their dogs, young students practising soccer, and some adventurous kids climbing the rocks. II had a little adventure myself as a dog bounded at me with gnawing teeth. Within seconds, though, I knew he meant no harm and I was petting him as his owners walked over to apologise. 

It was a Sunday, a day spent well for all them. And as I observed them go about their life, I understood how much they’ve incorporated nature in their livelihood. In their opinion, there couldn’t be a better way to spend a Sunday afternoon, and having seen families spend entire days whiling away on television, I would’t ever contend the Austin way of life.

Turning away from all that was difficult, but something else promised to be a much greater experience. 

Zilker Botanical Garden

Zilker Botanical Garden
Zilker Botanical Garden

And what an experience that was.

Much like The Washington Park in Portland, this garden contains smaller sects, like a rose garden, Japanese Gardens, desert plants, waterfalls, streams, and a prehistoric garden. Texas Historical Commission has established exhibits too, a model of a classroom, as well as a Swedish log cabin and blacksmith shop to depict the lifestyle of the first Swedes of Texas. There’re also live demonstrations of the recycling process, the workings of solar energy, and a spiral garden. 

It’s these little things that depict people’s dedication towards making a cleaner environment. And as I walked into a large clearing with a massive spade thrust into the earth with a social message on it, I knew that it was all more than just talk. The population of Austin is taking steady steps, small though they are, to leave this earth better than the way we found it.

I lingered a little longer for the fresh air, glistening grass, and beautiful flowers, but when I left, peace reigned.

Scene, unseen

Zilker Botanical Garden

The nectar of life

the secrets of botany

hidden in plain sight

— — —

Photo: Zilker Botanical Garden in Austin, Texas