Tag: Seattle

To market, to market

I spent my first few hours in Seattle breathing in sea breeze and getting accustomed to the lack of sunshine. Having walked down the waterfront, I halted at the end of the road right in front of the Pike Place Market. Although I’d heard about the iconic market, I had no idea what to expect. From what I’d heard from friends, it’s the ultimate destination for all types of fresh produce and oceanic catch.

As I climbed the stairs, leading to the market, I noticed weird facades and odd-shaped stairwells leading to and from the corners. Set atop hills, the city of Seattle and the market area in particular, have no flat surfaces. Not only did it feel as if I was climbing a hill on top of a hill, but it also felt as though I was riding up and down waves that were the curves of the hills.

Pike Place Market 4

Life teemed in and around the market. It was a Wednesday, and despite it being midday when most people would be in their offices, the market resembled a Sunday carnival. When I reached the top, a little sign welcomed me with information and a map of the market. Trying to be smart about my strategy, I took the elevator all the way to the top floor so I could walk down each floor missing nothing.

When the lift doors opened at the sixth floor, a wave of dim light and buzzing voices greeted me. It was as if I’d taken the lift to a dark movie from the 70s. Facing me was the entrance to a supermarket selling all types of candy, weird foods, and random home items. Wondering what about the market attracted so many eyeballs and footfalls, I began walking around the floor, and then from floor to floor, observing the many stylistic and curious shops.

Each floor I stopped at had a variety of stores. From eerie stores selling Halloween and magic merchandise to a magazine shop selling vintage Playboys and Time magazines from the 40s, to a saloon that invited customers, every corner filled up with something worth staring at or dropping my jaw on. Tibetan artefacts, leather bags, indie artist studios, thrift shops, liquor stores, stationary, carpentry shops, jewellery stores, clothing like t-shirts, hats, ties, and belts, pet care, human care, hair styles, Seattle mementoes, and thousands of other little and large shops lit up as customers thronged.

As if that weren’t overwhelming enough, the pillars of the building itself told stories of the history of the Pike Place Market.

By the time I reached the ground floor, I’d seen so much more than I’d ever thought I’d see in a lifetime. It wasn’t the end, though. The ground covered more shops, most of which were food and perishables. On one corner, farmers from all over Seattle displayed fresh produce, some even handing out sliced fruit for samples. Gorging on the freshest piece of plum, I kept walking along the market, my eyes widening at the sight of fruits and vegetables in quantities and quality like never before. On another corner, young fishermen entertained onlookers by playing catch with 10-pound fish. Even more fishermen posed with their catch sprawled on ice blocks for tourists clicking photos at will.

Pike Place Market 6

A little further away were cafés, bakeries, restaurants, and smaller family owned businesses. They sold products like coffee, tea, chocolate, jams and condiments, and even a noteworthy pepper jelly.

Walking by so many shops, it was only too easy to get lost. Every time I tried to find my way back, I ended up finding something new altogether. That’s how I came upon the world-renowned Gum Wall. Although I knew it was somewhere around the market, I didn’t know how close it was until I ran into the pungent smell of stale gooeyness and deafening roar of a drilling machine. Though it’s been a symbol of love and an icon of the city for many years, the Gum Wall was messy and repulsive when I saw it. For better or worse, it was the first of a scheduled two-day cleaning of the wall. Each year, authorities scrape away old gum, fumigate the wall and its surroundings, and then re-stick the gum to its former glory. It’s become a necessary cleansing ritual because of the thousands of visitors who enter the alley every day to freeze the Gum Wall in their wall frames.

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It was in the same unintentional way that I found the Pike Place Brewery. The moment I stepped in, scores of posters and beer references stunned me. It’s a bar with their own brewery underground. Loud music followed me to every corner of the bar as I scanned the wall shelves for interesting bottles and eye-catching displays.

Drunk by all that I’d seen, I exited the brewery and the market to stuff myself with some homemade cheese.

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I’d had no idea Seattle had so much to show.

Along Seattle Waterfront

I was on the train from Portland to Seattle. While swishing past SeaTac, the sky outside my window looked gloomy and dark. According to forecasts, the rains would make a stop in Seattle as well. Shuddering within myself, I looked up the current temperature, and gulped several times as I realised I might not be able to handle 11 degrees. It would be the first time I visited an unfamiliar city and would have to find my own way to my host’s place. And I wasn’t thrilled about the idea of having to do all that and shivering in the cold at the same time.

By the time the train halted at the Kings Cross station in Seattle, the temperature had risen to 13 degrees, which was still cold for me. Wondering what to do, I left the train, and making sure to get some photographs of the wonderful Amtrak Cascades, walked into the warmth of the station. Despite being indoors, the cold stung at my skin, and as I pulled my sweater closer to myself, my insides squirmed in cold and hunger. Swallowing hard, and wishing I didn’t have to do it, I plunged myself outside the great doors, onto the street. The chilly breeze slapped my face, and the mild sun was far from comforting.

Downtown Seattle 1

It was around 12:30 in the afternoon, and my host wouldn’t expect me until 5:00 pm. Besides, I reasoned, my host lived so far away from Downtown Seattle that I didn’t want to come back into town the next day. So I decided to set my discomfort aside and experience what I’d arrived in Seattle for. The last thing I wanted was to stay in the same place feeling miserable and cold. I may as well have a look around while at it, I concluded. With my map for visual guidance and my host’s directions for assurance, I  followed the route to Alascan Way, the road along the sea line.

As soon as I entered the bustling streets, I understood what made Seattle so romantic to visitors. Not only was the city full of towering buildings, it also teemed with excited life. During the three weeks I’d stayed in Pleasanton, although I saw a lot of high-rise buildings, I almost saw no excitement on the streets. People went about their daily business, smiling and welcoming but it was nothing more than respectful behaviour. San Francisco, on the other hand, had been overwhelming with so full of people and so much energy.

Downtown Seattle 2

Seattle, however, was a delicate balance between the two. It was a pleasant experience walking along the footpath, turning my head this way and that, eager to catch everything within my visual range and cautious of missing nothing. Within ten minutes on the street, I grew accustomed to the weather. The cold no longer bothered me, and the breeze felt easy on my face. Surprised myself, I pulled my hands from within my pockets and I didn’t even feel like ice shards were stabbing me. I smiled. Perhaps this wouldn’t be such a bad day, after all. And sure enough, I soon realised that almost everyone on the streets of Seattle wore light jackets and sweaters—I fitted right in with the locals.

Seattle waterfront 3

Getting on the Alaskan way, I found my way to the waterfront. The moment I stepped onto the path, I saw the ocean in front of me and a host of excitement a little further. A range of restaurants, delis, shops, and people hung around the area. It was as I if I’d entered a massive, yet horizontal, carnival space. Large wooden buildings hoarded rental boats, offering ferry rides, sightseeing tours, and assuring personal guides. I stepped onto a ledge-like structure that extended into sea. Standing on the ledge, I looked around and saw boats setting out into the sea, pelicans taking off, birds soaring in the distance, and the sea, a calm and glittering sheen under a mere sun.

Continuing down the path, the gigantic Ferris wheel of Seattle came into my view. Although a national monument by itself, the Great Wheel is far less recognised than the iconic Space Needle. I hadn’t realised how magnificent it was until I saw the wheel right in front of me. I’d always imagined the Needle as the only extraordinary piece of architecture in Seattle. Oh, how glad I am to be wrong about that. I didn’t get too close to the wheel, but from where I stood, it held my attention long enough for me to preach myself never again to judge anything or anyone too soon.

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The entire path—the Waterfront Park—was a tourist magnet. So many people stood around, taking photos, gawking at the sea, and dropping jaws at the sights. Regardless of the tourists, I never felt, even for a moment, uncomfortable or distressed. There was so much space for all of us that we could be our own stupid touristy self without disturbing the next tourist. Coming from an over-populated country and city, I enjoyed being a part of the waterfront atmosphere, going with the flow, and being just another person on the street.

Seattle waterfront 1

When I’d seen all that I had to see at the Waterfront Park, the path turned right. And when I looked to my right, I saw a flight of stairs leading to the a place I’d been looking forward to: The Pike Place Market.

Seattle was just beginning to thrill me.